It was sometime around noon when the small brown dog went overboard. No one will ever know whether he jumped off the boat to follow his owner Captain Mike, who was in the dinghy, heading towards town to do some shopping. Perhaps the excited pooch lost its footing as it trotted back and forth along the deck excitedly barking at a couple of bottle nose dolphins that swim in the harbor. This day there would be no witnesses to solve the mystery.
Bandit, the wayward pup, would not be able to climb back onto the boat. It wasn't a good day for pup, or human, to go swimming in the beautiful aquamarine waters of Elizabeth Harbor, Great Exuma, Bahamas. North East winds blew a steady 22-knots, with higher gusts, as ominous gray clouds raced across the sky. Boats, even a couple of hundred yards from the lee shore, bobbed up and down in the anchorages. White caps skipped across the top of the two-foot chop in the middle of the harbor. Dinghies swayed back and forth attached to the back of the anchored boats. Not many cruisers would venture out. It was a good day to work inside the boat, read a book, or watch a movie.
The pup's floating home just happened to be named, Rogue Dog. It was a small trawler with blue trim. On this dismal day, the boat was anchored near town on the windward side of the harbor, not affording much protection from the weather. Boaters who can't wait for the wind to die down often take the big boat across the one-and-a-half-mile wide harbor if it is necessary to get groceries, propane, water, gasoline, or Internet service. While there is little protection from North to South winds, it does provide a short, wet and bouncy, dinghy ride into town.
Finishing business in town, the captain of Rogue Dog approached his winter home. Nearing the big boat he became alarmed when his faithful 20-lb cairn terrier did not come to greet him. The alarm quickly became a feeling of dread for the elderly captain as calls for his precious four legged friend went unanswered.
When the first call for help came through the VHF radios across the harbor, it was hard to understand the frantic man's plea for assistance. "Can someone help? My small brown dog went overboard within the last two hours. Can someone help me search? Maybe he made it to shore?"the anguished man pleaded. The broken voice of Captain Mike repeated the call, explaining that he had a dinghy but his vision was poor and he would need someone to look for the dog along the shore.
Several boaters answered the call. The captains of Anania and Water Witch boarded their dinghies for the treacherous wet and lumpy ride across the harbor. One boater suggested that Captain Mike determine a search area by dropping something overboard and watch the direction that wind and waves carried the item. After a few minutes several other brave cruisers began the long trip across the bumpy harbor to aid in the search.
Those of us who could not assist sent out thoughts and prayers for a positive outcome. After a couple of hours, dinghies began the roughest part of the trip back to their boats. The VHF radio squawked with inquiries about the dog. The early news was not good, but boaters were hopeful that the small dog might have been carried down island and made landfall without getting slammed against the jagged iron rock shore line.
Captain Tom from Anania rode with Bandit's elderly master along the shoreline and cays. On a last trip, a long shot and an upwind leg, the elderly man,who could not see well, heard a weak but familiar bark. As the two men in the dinghy neared the deserted shrub covered cay, Captain Tom spotted the wet and tired dog.
Against all odds the rouge dog had paddled against the wind and the waves and made it to the small cay a half mile North and East of where his misadventure began. No one ever dreamed that the dog would have paddled against the waves. It was only a fluke that the two rescuers decided to make the pass upwind of Rogue Dog.
Needless to say, there weren't many dry eyes on Imagine, when at 6:00 p.m., Captain Mike announced on the VHF that Bandit was safe at home, albeit a little wet and tired. With relief and joy in his voice, he thanked all the cruisers who participated in the search and invited them to his boat when the weather cleared to meet his pup and to share a drink.
No sooner had Captain Mike finished when the clicking began. Across the harbor boaters were clicking the talk button on their VHF microphones. That's a boaters way of saying, good job! As the sun set all was well in Elizabeth Harbor. I'm betting that one small brown rogue dog was getting some extra loving that night.
It never ceases to amaze me how cruisers reach out to help other cruisers in need. It is nice to be part of this caring community to know that in an emergency, there are others who come to your aid.
February 19, 2013
January 3, 2013
Timing is Everything
Barry Ellis of Little Farmers Cay |
After three days of rest at Grand Bahama Island, it was time to move south and east to the more southern islands of the Bahamas That is where we will spend the winter. Of course, the wind was blowing from that same direction which would mean that once again, at best Imagine would be a motor sailer, or worse... a trawler with a mast. We could stay and pray for the wind to change, or we could go. What the heck, another 24 hours of beating into the wind and we would reach the Exumas.
Exiting Bell Channel, the VHF radio surprised us with a familiar voice. It was long time Canadian boating acquaintances Brian and Yvonne Wilkins on the catamaran Options III. They were arriving in Lucaya after crossing over from Lake Worth, Fla. the night before. Traveling with them were other sailing friends, Bess Wordell and Jim St. Pierre, on the sailboat Destiny. Both boats were only a couple of miles away. We switched to a non- working channel and quickly caught up as Ed set a course for Great Harbor in The Berry Islands chain. Their timing was great, an hour later and we would not have heard them.
Under sunny skies and shouldering against three to four waves, Imagine sailed slightly off course for a more comfortable ride and to keep air in the mainsail. It was necessary to tack left and then right every couple of miles to maintain the course as we sailed towards The Berrys. A glow of light appeared on the western horizon as we approached the island chain after dark. The course kept us well east of the shallow waters surrounding The Berrys. Imagine sailed past Great Harbor and continued southeast towards Rose Island off of New Providence Island and Nassau.
White blips on the radar screen indicated the movement of other boats, their course and speed. Lights on the darkened horizon 12 or more miles out often prove to be one of the many cruise ships that frequent the area. These behemoth ships light up the darkness like bright white neon from miles away as they circle and wait for daylight to head into Freeport or Nassau. I think Cruise ship marketers plan morning arrivals so that guests awake to the clear turquoise waters as they head into port.
Daylight comes and Rose Island diminishes as Imagine now moves towards the shallow Yellow Banks. Coral heads and rocks dot the shallow area and can prove hazardous to unwary boaters. The lowest depth noticed on this trip was seven feet. Once across, the course was set for Norman's Stake that marks the entrance of Norman's Cay anchorage.
Twenty-seven hours after leaving Grand Bahama, Imagine bobbed at anchor in front of a lone palm tree on a sandy islet inside the Norman's Cay anchorage. We were the only boat anchored. We could have been depicted on paradise postcard. Forty days and 1,262 nautical miles after leaving the Sassafras River on the Chesapeake, we arrived in the southern Bahamas. Ed got the watermaker running. We took showers, ate sandwiches and were asleep before dark.
Large stacked gray clouds Sat heavy on the horizon as Imagine got underway the next morning heading further south. After lunch Ed grabs the binoculars when he notices a boat on the far horizon. As Imagine closes the difference it is obvious that someone is waving from the boat. What appears to be a windsock is a T-shirt. The boat is anchored in front of Galliott Cut.
Ed handing gas to Barry Ellis near Cave Cay |
As we get closer we notice the local man waving more frantically. Ed slows Imagine and turns towards the distressed boater. I take a line and go to the bow. The stranded man lifts a red fuel jug to indicate he had run out of gas. He pulls his anchor and I throw him a line.
His name is Barry Ellis and he lives on Little Farmers Cay. He was heading to nearby Cave Cay to get gas and then to Musha Cay (home to magician David Copperfield) to pick his wife up from work when he ran out of gas. The unlucky biater had been sitting there for three hours when came into sight. We towed him as close as we could get to Cave Cay. The low tide kept us from getting all the way in. I anchored Imagine as Ed gave Ellis the gas to get going again. It took a while for the Bahamian to mix oil into the gas and to get his motor started again. When he asked what he owed us, Ed replied, "A simple thank you will do." He told us to stop by Little Farmers for some lobster in appreciation for our help.
After the rescue, Imagine stayed where it was, anchored for the night. The next morning Imagine would snuggle into a no service slip at the Sandals Marina at Emerald Bay to re-fuel and wash six large loads of salty and very smelly laundry. It was a good way to end the day. And as I said in the beginning, timing is everything. I know one Bahamian fisherman who would agree.
December 20, 2012
One More Ocean Adventure
The rise and fall of the Ocean swell change can change from a dry gentle rolling motion to something more like a ride on a wet log flume in a matter of minutes. Crossing the Gulf Stream from Ft. Pierce, Fla. to Port Lucaya. Grand Bahama in early December looked as if it was going to be a smooth ride. And it was, for the first 12 hours.
At 6:30 a.m., a slight breeze from the southeast barely rippled the still waters as Imagine glided away from the mooring ball at the Vero Beach City Marina heading towards the inlet at Fort Pierce. Ahead of us the sailing vessels Blackthorn and Edelweiss followed the meandering Intracoastal Waterway to the Atlantic Ocean. Breeze Hunter brought up the rear.
East southeast winds freshened to 12 knots as the four boats travelled on an incoming tide out to the open ocean. Seas were somewhat confused at the mouth of the inlet, but as we adjusted our course, the waves became four to six foot gentle swells with eight to10 seconds between each rise. With light wind on the nose, Imagine pointed to Grand Bahama Island and motor sailed with only the mainsail.
The west wall of the Gulf Stream was located fifteen miles off Fort Pierce. The deep dark blue waters of the stream moved quickly northward. Instead of chugging along at 7.5 knots, Imagine slowed to 5.2 knots as the powerful current fought against the set southeasterly course. The sun was bright. The skies were blue. The seas provided a gentle forward to aft ride. Blackthorn and Edelweiss hoped to get lucky and dragged fishing lines behind their boats.
Around 6:00 p.m. Clouds began to fill in and the winds increased to17 knots. The swells became untamed waves that were spaced much closer together. By the time I came back on watch at 11:00 p.m. The waves were spitting spray. Ed told me to put on my foul weather gear. Of course I ignored him and opted for a light wind breaker. The wind picked up to 22 knots, gusting 25. Imagine was now pounding forward and aft, bouncing as she plowed through the wind driven waves. Ocean spray whipped around the port side of the boat and into the cockpit. "What's so bad about a little spray? At least it is warm," I thought.
It wasn't 10 minutes later that Imagine dipped into a trough between two waves. As she tripped into the hole a wave washed over the bow, dodger and bimini, filling the decks with water that spilled into my lap and onto the sole before draining back to sea through the deck and cockpit drains. Okay, that was a little more wet than I needed. It was now way too late for foul weather gear.
Over the next five hours. I keep an eye on the other boats. Blackthorn fell behind on Imagine's starboard stern. Edelweiss followed and Breeze Hunter sailed off to port. The lights from their masts bounced up and down in the frothing waters. I know that they too are having a rough night. Occasionally, we call each other on the radio to check on how everyone is holding up. There is comfort knowing that there are others traveling the same watery road.
Seven hours later, after playing trampoline with mother nature, Imagine sails into the lee of Grand Bahama Island. The seas settle as the the land blocks much of the wind. I'm more than happy to go below at 4 a.m. It is time for Ed to take over.
He wakes me at 7:00 a.m. We prepare to enter Bell Channel leading to Port Lucaya Marina. Breeze Hunter, with a shallower depth than Imagine, calls out the depths on the VHF radio as we follow them into the shallow channel at dead low tide. The lowest depth is eight feet and all is good as we peer at the sand through the clear turquoise waters. Ed seamlessly allows the current to push the salty boat towards a long fuel dock where Kathy and Darius from Breeze Hunter grab our lines. Blackthorn and Edelweiss are anchoring out while Jim, on Blackthorn, dives on his prop.
It is 7:30 a.m. Twenty-five hours have passed since the journey began. An hour later we are in a slip. The yellow quarantine flag waves above Imagine's deck. We clear customs by 10:00 a.m. and raise the Bahamian courtesy flag. We straighten the boat and toast a bagel. Next we contact our family to let them know we are safe.
Music from Count Basie Square at the Port Lucaya Marketplace is festive and seasonal. I sit in the cockpit enjoying a soft breeze under blue skies surrounded by the colorful Bahamian waters. Palms trees seem to sway in time as Bahamians in the square belt out Christmas Carols with a lilting sing song accent. "Oh night when Christ was born, oh night divine, ya mon!"
In the square palm trees are adorned with colorful Christmas lights. A 25 foot tree sits among toys and packages. Bahamians bombard Ed calling out who their Christmas wishes. Without a drop in the beat he answers, "I'm going to have to think about that. I know what you were doing last Thursday night." Everyone laughs. The ladies want to touch his beard.
What a difference a few hours can make. Was it only a few hours ago that I was saturated with seawater? There's the saying that there is always a light at the end of the tunnel. Well we found it.
I wish everyone a joyous holiday season and a New Year filled with only the best that it has to offer.
At 6:30 a.m., a slight breeze from the southeast barely rippled the still waters as Imagine glided away from the mooring ball at the Vero Beach City Marina heading towards the inlet at Fort Pierce. Ahead of us the sailing vessels Blackthorn and Edelweiss followed the meandering Intracoastal Waterway to the Atlantic Ocean. Breeze Hunter brought up the rear.
East southeast winds freshened to 12 knots as the four boats travelled on an incoming tide out to the open ocean. Seas were somewhat confused at the mouth of the inlet, but as we adjusted our course, the waves became four to six foot gentle swells with eight to10 seconds between each rise. With light wind on the nose, Imagine pointed to Grand Bahama Island and motor sailed with only the mainsail.
The west wall of the Gulf Stream was located fifteen miles off Fort Pierce. The deep dark blue waters of the stream moved quickly northward. Instead of chugging along at 7.5 knots, Imagine slowed to 5.2 knots as the powerful current fought against the set southeasterly course. The sun was bright. The skies were blue. The seas provided a gentle forward to aft ride. Blackthorn and Edelweiss hoped to get lucky and dragged fishing lines behind their boats.
Around 6:00 p.m. Clouds began to fill in and the winds increased to17 knots. The swells became untamed waves that were spaced much closer together. By the time I came back on watch at 11:00 p.m. The waves were spitting spray. Ed told me to put on my foul weather gear. Of course I ignored him and opted for a light wind breaker. The wind picked up to 22 knots, gusting 25. Imagine was now pounding forward and aft, bouncing as she plowed through the wind driven waves. Ocean spray whipped around the port side of the boat and into the cockpit. "What's so bad about a little spray? At least it is warm," I thought.
It wasn't 10 minutes later that Imagine dipped into a trough between two waves. As she tripped into the hole a wave washed over the bow, dodger and bimini, filling the decks with water that spilled into my lap and onto the sole before draining back to sea through the deck and cockpit drains. Okay, that was a little more wet than I needed. It was now way too late for foul weather gear.
Over the next five hours. I keep an eye on the other boats. Blackthorn fell behind on Imagine's starboard stern. Edelweiss followed and Breeze Hunter sailed off to port. The lights from their masts bounced up and down in the frothing waters. I know that they too are having a rough night. Occasionally, we call each other on the radio to check on how everyone is holding up. There is comfort knowing that there are others traveling the same watery road.
Seven hours later, after playing trampoline with mother nature, Imagine sails into the lee of Grand Bahama Island. The seas settle as the the land blocks much of the wind. I'm more than happy to go below at 4 a.m. It is time for Ed to take over.
He wakes me at 7:00 a.m. We prepare to enter Bell Channel leading to Port Lucaya Marina. Breeze Hunter, with a shallower depth than Imagine, calls out the depths on the VHF radio as we follow them into the shallow channel at dead low tide. The lowest depth is eight feet and all is good as we peer at the sand through the clear turquoise waters. Ed seamlessly allows the current to push the salty boat towards a long fuel dock where Kathy and Darius from Breeze Hunter grab our lines. Blackthorn and Edelweiss are anchoring out while Jim, on Blackthorn, dives on his prop.
It is 7:30 a.m. Twenty-five hours have passed since the journey began. An hour later we are in a slip. The yellow quarantine flag waves above Imagine's deck. We clear customs by 10:00 a.m. and raise the Bahamian courtesy flag. We straighten the boat and toast a bagel. Next we contact our family to let them know we are safe.
Music from Count Basie Square at the Port Lucaya Marketplace is festive and seasonal. I sit in the cockpit enjoying a soft breeze under blue skies surrounded by the colorful Bahamian waters. Palms trees seem to sway in time as Bahamians in the square belt out Christmas Carols with a lilting sing song accent. "Oh night when Christ was born, oh night divine, ya mon!"
In the square palm trees are adorned with colorful Christmas lights. A 25 foot tree sits among toys and packages. Bahamians bombard Ed calling out who their Christmas wishes. Without a drop in the beat he answers, "I'm going to have to think about that. I know what you were doing last Thursday night." Everyone laughs. The ladies want to touch his beard.
What a difference a few hours can make. Was it only a few hours ago that I was saturated with seawater? There's the saying that there is always a light at the end of the tunnel. Well we found it.
I wish everyone a joyous holiday season and a New Year filled with only the best that it has to offer.
November 19, 2012
Thankful for the rain
Summer Days stops and helps a grounded sailboat |
The season of goodwill and giving thanks has arrived. Imagine is tied to a face dock in an
unseasonably chilly Georgetown, South Carolina. We thought we would be in Florida by now and sharing a
communal Thanksgiving dinner with fellow cruisers in Vero Beach. Not happening.
The temperatures continue to hover in the mid-forties and near
gale force winds continue to howl offshore as yet another storm haunts the
coast. While I wish I had warmer weather, I am thankful for the rain and cold
temperatures that have kept us dock bound. We could have run into the storms offshore. Ten-foot waves and 30-knot winds aren’t
fun when there is no land in sight.
We left Coinjock, NC almost two weeks ago. Imagine snaked through foggy marshes,
motored across the still Albemarle Sound, followed the magenta line through the
Alligator Pungo Canal and anchored outside Belhaven, NC.
Even though skies were gray and cold, it was nice to be moving
again. For a brief moment the skies gave way to blue as we watched as
a motorboat turn around to pull a sailboat off a shoal. I was thankful that it wasn’t Imagine
aground. It made me thankful for
the good Captain on the motor yacht Sunny Days who cared enough to help a
fellow boater.
The following day, traveling the Bay River, we hung over the bow
rail and laughed as a pod of dolphins played in our wake, swimming, diving,
jumping and spraying the foredeck as they cleared their blowholes. The dolphins fell behind as we turned
into the Neuse River.
That evening we anchored with three other sailboats on the South River. Despite the cold dismal day, it was a
good one. A quiet anchorage, a
free dolphin show and homemade bread that filled the cabin with it’s wonderful
essence, what more could one ask for?
The following day Imagine continued south towards Morehead City
Yacht basin to fill up on diesel.
The sun came out for the first time since we left our homeport. By the time we tied to the fuel dock,
we had shed our gloves, hats and layers of vests, sweaters and jackets. It was 75 degrees. That, and a two-day weather
window, encouraged us to take Imagine offshore to Georgetown. The 24-hour offshore jaunt would save
us four days doing the Intracoastal Waterway crawl. After calling family with our changed float plan,
Imagine headed offshore through a flotilla of small fishing craft taking
advantage of the Veteran’s Day holiday and the beautiful weather.
By nightfall, the skies turned cloudy again. Wind clocked to the south and on our
nose. Ed pulled in the headsail and cranked down the main to keep them from flapping. He went below as I came up for my
five-hour watch. The radar showed
some rain heading our way.
As Imagine plowed southward the winds kicked up and the waves reached
about five feet as we passed through the brief storms. I was thankful that the rain was
coming from the south in short bursts that lasted no more than a half
hour. With only a bimini and
dodger for protection, the open cockpit would not have kept me dry.
Gray skies followed us as we sailed into Winyah Bay the next
morning. Imagine was docked at
Georgetown’s Hazard Marina on the Sampit River by noon. We would stay here a couple of
days until the next weather window would take us to Florida.
Eight days later the wind howls from the Northeast and the tubular
rubber fenders squeak as the wind blows Imagine tighter to the dock. It has rained every day. On day three we meet up with some
boating friends for lunch in historic Georgetown. I am thankful for all of my friends, both on land and on
sea.
The ICW from here to Florida is not an option for Imagine with its
deep six foot, five inch draft.
Five to seven foot tides are the norm in South Carolina and
Georgia. With the winds the tides
can go even lower. With the
shoaling in the shallow ICW, it is not prudent for us to attempt this
section. We wait to go
offshore. I have a warm boat to
wait in and again I’m thankful.
Thanksgiving season is one time that I remind myself of my
blessings. Sometimes it is hard to remember all that we have to be grateful
for, especially when bombarded with images of war, greed and disaster crashing
into our living rooms, our computers, our radios and even our cell phones. No matter how challenging one’s life is
now, there is someone who is in worse shape.
During this season, I work to be kinder, to share a smile with
strangers. That small gesture
might make their day. I appreciate
all who inspire me. I am thankful
for my education and the fact I can read, and write, and see, and hear. I am thankful for my memories and for
those who make a difference in the lives of others.
I know time of year is hard for those who have lost loved one’s
recently and in the past. Take a
moment in the comfort of the many memories you will carry forever in your
heart. Know your loved one will
never entirely leave you. Be
thankful for all the years you were able to share.
Throughout the year there is so much to be thankful for. For me it
is my family, my husband, my children, my grandchildren and the new one that
will arrive next summer. It is my
morning cup of coffee, a good book, a rainbow, and friends. Now that I’ve started, I can go
on and on.
If you are reading this, I challenge you to take a moment during
this time of thanksgiving and goodwill to discover what makes you
thankful. Happy Thanksgiving.
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